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Do I buy from a breeder or pet shop? A dealer or pet shop will have little background information on the kitten and it may have been subjected to unnecessary stress or exposed to infection which it would not have encountered going straight from breeder to new home. A conscientious breeder would want to meet the new owner and would be highly unlikely to sell to an intermediary. The breeder could also be a valuable source of information and advice whereas the shop is less likely to take a long term interest in the kitten / cat. What can I expect when I contact the breeder? A good breeder doesnt produce in large numbers, so you may have to wait for a kitten. Firstly remember a cheap kitten is rarely a bargain. Rearing a litter can be quite costly not to mention the time invested in caring for, supervising and socialising a kitten and its litter mates. This will be reflected in the purchase price. A kitten which has not had the right care, food and love can ultimately be very expensive in terms of vet bills and social problems. Try to see at least one show quality litter before you buy. Once you have seen a good litter, you will make a better choice, because you will know the difference between these kittens and an ill-bred one. If possible go to a show and get some information about the breed. A caring reputable breeder will want to ensure that the kitten is going to a good and hopefully permanent home so be prepared for a few questions and possible conditions of purchase, e.g. an agreement that you will neuter the kitten if it has not been bought for breeding. Arrange to see the kitten(s) in their home environment. The breeder should ask you a number of questions to ensure that you are the right person to have a kitten. In turn, you too must ask a lot of questions. When you ring to ask about a litter, ask as many questions as you can over the phone. If you dont find the answers forthcoming, you know the breeder isnt knowledgeable and you may feel that this is not the person you wish to buy from. If possible arrange to see several litters before buying. Look at the adults, as well as the kittens. Reputable breeders do not sell kittens under twelve weeks old. They must be free of parasites (check their coat, ears and bottoms) and should be kept clean and in hygienic surroundings. They should have been inoculated against Feline Infectious Enteritis and ideally Cat Flu. Do not pick up a kitten from filthy surroundings as this could be an indication of future health problems. See if your kitten is alert and active but not vicious. S/He should not have a runny nose nor should he have signs of diarrhoea. The kitten should be inquisitive and willing to be handled. If you select a quality Persian, it means that he conforms to the standard recognized by the WCF. Ask the breeder to tell you the differences between show kittens and good pet quality kittens. Understanding the breeders terminology: If you cant understand typical jargon, communicating with your breeder will be very difficult. So, get the low-down on what he means when he says the following: Show potential: To be of show quality, your kitten should also have excellent breed type and that something extra that sets him off as different from all the other entrants. No cat is a perfect example of the standard and no breeder can guarantee you a champion, but the kitten should be free from major breed faults and any defects as listed in the Standard of Points. Breeding quality: These kittens, though essentially the same as the show type, rarely ever have that something extra that judges are looking for, but should not have major faults or defects as defined in the breed standard or list of defects. Any such faults will be passed on to the progeny and you will simply breed them into your kittens. Pet quality: Healthy and beautiful, these kittens may have a small flaw in them which renders them unfit for breeding or showing, for instance, a bad bite, a colour or conformation fault, e.g. ears too large etc. These faults should not include health problems. What questions do I ask the breeder ? When you go to look at kittens, ask him the following questions: How long has s/he been breeding Persians? How many litters does s/he produce every year? Is s/he affiliated to any regional, national or breed cat clubs How much does s/he charge for his/her kittens? Does s/he offer a health guarantee? What happens if your kitten doesnt turn out according to the guarantee? Can s/he be replaced or will your money be returned? Does the kitten or its parents suffer from any particular health problems or conditions.? What health tests have been done on BOTH parents of the litter, Which inoculations has the kitten been given? Is the inoculation certificate available? Has s/he been wormed / with what and when? What type of contract does the breeder have for pet or show kittens? (If you are buying a pet kitten a breeder may ask you to sign an agreement that the kitten will be neutered.) Does s/he have a pedigree for the kitten? Do his/her kittens come with MFGC registration? Is the transfer certificate available? Does s/he own the parents of this kitten or at least one of them? Are the sire and dam available for you to see? Where were the parents or mother bought? What does the kitten eat? If you are looking for a kitten to show or breed from you should also ask: What goals does the breeder have with his/her breeding program and how does s/he go about achieving this? What does the breeder feel are the strengths and weaknesses in the breed and the breeder's program? How many champions has the breeder shown How many champions has s/he bred? Is either parent of the kitten a champion? Or his grandparents? If so, are there WCF or FIFE championship certificates or photographs to prove this? What do I look for when choosing a kitten? size / weight: A good guide to weight is that a kitten should weigh about one pound for each month of age up to about 4 months. In other words: a 3 month old kitten should weigh about 3 pounds eyes: The area under and around a Persian's eyes may need to be wiped with dry cotton wool after it has eaten and this may be more so in a kitten which is teething. However, excessively runny or sore eyes are a sign of a problem. Any discharge should be minimal not thick or purulent. The eye rims should not appear sore. The kitten should have round open eyes. coat:The coat should be clean, soft and knot free. Check for signs of skin lesions (an indication of ringworm or mite) and fleas (The most common sign is black gritty bits in the coat, especially along the spine.). nature: The kitten should be willing to be handled and friendly. You might also like to ask to see how the kitten reacts when it is groomed, especially if it is an older kitten. Do, however, remember that you are a stranger and the kitten may feel more confident with someone it knows. tail: Check for signs of worms or diarrhea (a sore bottom) tummy: The tummy should not feel distended (although a particularly greedy kitten may try to pack in more that it should). Most particularly the baby should not have a big belly and a poorly covered frame. see mum: Does she look healthy ? (bearing in mind she has just reared a family) How do I make my home safe before I take the kitten home?: To get your house ready for your new kitten, you're going to have things to do around the house. After all kittens are so much like babies and they want to explore everything. But how do you know your house is safe and ready for your Persian. Check for these: Clear your house of poisonous items: Have you cleared your house of all poisonous items and taken them out of your kitten's reach? If you haven't, now's the time to put away cleaners, laundry detergents, bleach, disinfectants, insecticides, cleaning fluid, fertilizers, mothballs and antifreeze in cabinets or high up on shelves. Of course, as s/he grows, and if s/he has an adventurous streak, s/he's sure to jump high on to your shelves to find out what's where. Put away dangerous objects: Are electrical cords hanging or loose nails lying around? If there are such dangerous objects lying around, pick them up and put them away. Block up any holes or areas that your kitten could get into and get trapped. Supervise him/her: Don't let your kitten be by himself unsupervised whether inside or outside the house. Also, remember to keep him away from balconies, upper porches and high decks or s/he may just slip through the openings and fall. Keep our toilet covered: Kittens have been known to fall in the toilet bowl. This is harmful for him as s/he may swallow the toilet cleanser or if s/he falls in s/head first there is a chance s/he could drowned. What do I need to get before I take my kitten home? feeding dish - not a deep bowl - Many Persians are reluctant to put their flat faces into a deep bowl. a wide water bowl - Ceramic ones tend to keep the water cooler, but be sure to place it somewhere where it won't get knocked off. a litter tray / dirt box - large enough to accommodate your growing pet kitty litter - The breeder should be able to tell you which one your kitten is used to. a safe carrying box - There are a number of reasonably priced ones on the market and if you buy a kennel type one it can double as a sleeping box. a supply of the food your kitten is used to eating - The breeder should provide you with information on the kitten's diet and what to buy. grooming tools, brush, comb etc. The breeder can advise you on the best purchases. Settling the new kitten in: Place the kitten's box in a quite place where s/he will feel safe and comfortable - do not put the litter box somewhere you do not intend for it to stay - this will only confuse the kitten.. Show him/her where the litter tray is. Let the kitten explore the house under supervision and at regular intervals take him/her back to the litter tray (especially first thing in the morning and after a meal). For the first few days limit the number of rooms the kitten can explore when you are not there to supervise. Remember that a young kitten needs its sleep so do not be tempted to disturbe it at these times. Do not be tempted to change the kitten's diet for a few weeks and then introduce any changes gradually. Do let you vet give the kitten a health check within the first tweek |
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